Remember Maddie’s post yesterday? The one where she detailed our epic descent down Needles Highway? The descent that made her cry tears of joy? Today’s ride was even better.
The temperature was already in the mid-60s when we stopped for breakfast at the Hill City Cafe before we left town. They served breakfast all-you-can-eat buffet style. After we got our food the waitress immediately brought us the bill. No waiting around for service, and plenty of food; it was the perfect breakfast place for a cyclist!
Our ride began on the Mickelson Trail. The first 9 miles were essentially all uphill, and the surface was a rocky gravel. It was a super slow start to the day. Thankfully it was another beautiful day; Maddie and I were both dressed in only a short sleeve shirt and our padded shorts.
Around the 10th mile we started to descend. For 4 straight miles we raced downhill, rolling over rocks and slippery gravel. My hands were aching by the end because I was holding onto the brakes the whole time, for fear that I’d skid out and fall if I went too fast.
Afterwards the route calmed down. It was then that we really got to enjoy the beauty of our surroundings. The Mickelson Trail is a converted railroad; imagine taking a train on a winding route through a valley at the base of massive rock slabs with towering pine trees all around and a small river mirroring your every turn. This was the route we were biking, and it was absolutely stunning. Where yesterday’s ride on Needles Highway was a thrill, today’s section on the Mickelson was pure serenity. Not being on a road makes such a difference when taking in the beauty around you. You don’t always realize the distractions cars and road signs pose, but you sure notice how sweet their absence is.
After 30 miles on the Mickelson it was time for our paths to diverge, so we returned to the roads. We got on highway 14A which would take us into Spearfish, where we are staying the night with our WarmShowers host, Kyle. Highway 14A started with a massive climb. As we reached the top there was a road sign: “Warning: 7% grade next 3 miles. Trucks and trailers beware.” Uh oh, that’s steep. To our great pleasure, it turned out it was a 7% grade going down. Thus began the most exhilarating ride yet, a 3-mile plummet through the hills, in which our maximum speed topped 40mph. The fun wasn’t over though, as we then began our ride on the Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway.
Spearfish Canyon is the Black Hills’ number one natural attraction. There are trails for hiking and biking and horseback riding, spots to fish, camp sites, swimming sites, places to rock climb. It’s an outdoorsman’s paradise. On either side of the road that cuts through the gorge are thousand-foot rock faces. Each twist and turn produced a new rock face more stunning than the last. I kept putting my phone away, telling myself I didn’t need any more pictures, only to yank it out when we rounded the next bend.
The best part of the canyon is that it’s all downhill. For 20 miles straight, our speed never fell below 15mph, and we averaged 20. Back in Chadron, Steve told us that he never liked going downhill. When asked why he said, “well, I guess I don’t like losing my potential energy.” I thought that was such a great answer, and after a few days of riding hills I completely agree. You exert so much energy gaining altitude that it feels like a waste to give up the ground you’ve gained. Except, in this case. Because when you do start to convert that potential energy to kinetic, it better be worth it. And these descents were well worth it. I really can’t describe the pure joy that comes with many miles of wind in your face as you cut through a canyon, but just know, this was MY favorite ride of all time.
Of course, as we’ve said many times, nothing ever goes exactly according to plan. Maddie’s back tire went flat once again (we later found out our patch gave out) so we were stranded with 4 miles remaining in the canyon. We didn’t have any more tubes, and we didn’t trust a patch, so we decided to beg and plead and do whatever it took to get the next pickup truck that passed to give us a ride into Spearfish. A nice couple, Kevin and Kendra, stopped when they saw us and gladly invited us to hop in. No groveling necessary. They were so sweet, even driving us to the house to drop off our stuff, then over to the bike shop so we could fix Maddie’s bike and grab some new tubes. Once again, kind strangers save the day.
We treated ourselves to Leone’s Creamery. I went with avocado, blackberry lemon, and drunken banana ice cream, while Maddie opted for salted caramel and the blackberry lemon. It was good enough that I returned for a sundae with chocolate, caramel, and peanuts after we bumped into Kyle and he decided he’d like some ice cream too. Together we all biked to his house and settled in. Maddie and I each took turns helping Kyle prepare an etouffee, which is a Cajun-style stew of sautéed vegetables, shrimp, and lots and lots of butter. We ate it sitting on Kyle’s front porch, watching lightning split the sky in the distance, as the temperature began to drop.
I will be sleeping after I post this. We’ve been working hard the last few days, and the hard work won’t stop any time soon. The sun also drained me a bit today; I didn’t apply nearly enough sunscreen and my arms paid the price. A new state awaits - Wyoming here we come!
-Charlie