(8 hours late)
Today was one of those days that was so full, that as I sit here writing this now, the beginning of the day feels like it was a lifetime ago. We began at Tim’s, eating scrambled eggs and homemade bread and talking more about his art and our journey. Tim eventually sent us on our way with a few of his sketches, some to pass on to strangers and others to keep as mementos.
Our ride from Helena to Lincoln today was about 60 miles, an average day for us. What wasn’t average was the gigantic pass we knew was coming at some point. Nor was the 95 degree weather average; we ended up applying sunscreen three times, and going through a gallon of water each. 20 miles into the ride we stopped in Canyon Creek, a very small town just north of Helena. There we ate some ice cream and candy at the Canyon Creek Country Store. Not only does this store have bikers’ fuel, but it is also the longest-running post office in all of Montana, a grocery store, and an antique store.
13 miles later we turned left onto Fleshing Pass Rd and began the great ascent. We didn’t know it at the time, but this pass would bring us over the Continental Divide. The highest point of the pass reached 6,131 feet, a 1,500 foot increase from the bottom of the hill. The climb lasted about 4 miles, which was almost an hour with as slow as we were moving. There wasn’t any coverage from the sun, so we were baking the entire time. We only took one quick rest though, and didn’t walk the bikes at all. At the top you could see out over the entire valley, a beautiful sight to behold before zooming down the other side of the mountain.
We arrived in Lincoln soon thereafter. As we entered the town we noticed the sculpture garden that Tim suggested we check out. We stopped in briefly. There was a walking path through some woods, with all sorts of sculptures around the site. One was a sort of hut made out of twisted wooden branches, another an arched gateway made of stone. It was a neat pitstop.
There were just 3 miles left to our end destination as we left the sculpture garden and started to feel a drizzle. All day we had been baking in the sun with no reprieve in sight, and now here we were just minutes from home and our wish was granted. The light drizzle became a solid rain, then turned into an all-out thunderstorm within minutes. Maddie and I were biking furiously while the rain droplets pelted our skin; it felt like someone was throwing a thousand small pebbles at us, that’s how hard the wind was blowing. Lightning crashed less than a mile in front of us, and the thunder was louder than I’ve ever heard before. Fearing the potential outcome of riding a metal object through a thunderstorm, Maddie and I left our bikes in the side of the road and ran the last quarter mile. We were welcomed by Leah, her mother, and three of her kids, Andrea, Ty, and Lane. At this point we were soaked, so we stood dripping on the porch and chatted while waiting for the storm to pass.
In Montana they say “if you don’t like the weather, just wait 20 minutes and it will change.” The adage held true, and within 20 minutes everything had cleared enough for us to run back and grab our bikes. A man drove by asking if anyone had lost a chihuahua in the storm. Another man drove by on his ATV, laughing about the crazy downpour.
Hayes, Leah’s husband, arrived soon after we did. We all sat on the porch and chatted, learning about each others’ lives. Leah is originally from NY, near where Maddie lives. She moved out here in the early 2000s and never looked back. Hayes has lived here all his life. In fact, he took me by his childhood home during our run to the grocery store to buy buttermilk, Hayes’ favorite treat. He convinced me to try a glass, and I can’t say it was my favorite, but the flavor did improve with every sip. At the end of the ride he also let me drive his manual truck. I’ve driven manual a handful of times before, but I’ve never been much of a natural. Today I managed to get us down the street and into the driveway safely with no issues, a success!
Maddie and I played some baseball with the boys, who are in 2nd and 3rd grade. Leah’s girls are in 8th and 11th grade respectively this year. Lincoln is a small town with just over 1,000 people. There is one school in Lincoln, with 167 kids spread from K-12. The Feeholds love it, citing the strong small town community, the beauty, and the pace of life.
It was a lot of fun to be around such a large, dynamic family. We ate barbecue chicken along with sides of potatoes and broccoli. The siblings fought a little, and talked about school; today was “Track Day,” better known as Field Day back east. Andrea told us about a field trip to Yellowstone she went on recently. It all reminded me very strongly of my own childhood, and made me miss my siblings!
We will be in Missoula tomorrow: “Zoo Town,” as Hayes referred to it. Missoula will be the last big checkpoint before we make it to Seattle, so another milestone fast approaches. Tomorrow will also conclude our 8th week on the road! Crazy how time flies.
- Charlie